One of the largest Asian populations in America lives two hours north of San Diego, and it’s become a hot destination. Hipsters are converging on the scene of L.A.’s Little Tokyo, Koreatown, and Chinatown, opening businesses that rival their Eastern counterparts. Gentrification of the ethnic neighborhoods has prompted a burgeoning celebrity chef food scene, restored hotels and native art and cultural endeavors.
None of these communities’ blueprints exceeds three square miles. With their proximity to Union Station, these walkable areas are an invitation to leave the car at home and take Amtrak.
Here’s a snippet of what’s offered. Enjoy!
Chinatown
Located just six blocks northwest of the train terminal, Chinatown is an easy stroll; the Gold Line Metro is another option. While you’ll still find many Asian residents who speak little English selling wares from their homeland, a new generation of Chinese-Americans is opening trendy and tasty establishments.
Golden Dragon Parade: Saturday, Feb., 21, 1-3 p.m.
The lunar calendar’s Year of the Sheep starts on Feb. 19, and Chinatown will celebrate Saturday with its 116th annual parade. Multicultural patrons giddily watch massive red dragon heads bob at the front of billowing, human-propelled creatures. Streamers float to the ground as marching bands wow the crowd. Golden carriages drawn by white horses with crimson painted hoofs trot majestically beside local dignitaries.
Info: N. Broadway and Hill Street; lagoldendragonparade.com
Ocean Seafood
A pre- or post-parade meal here is recommended. Only one block from the parade route, swarms of diners vie for a table. Waiters present stainless-steel carts brimming with dim sum — bite-sized portions of food served in steamer baskets or on small plates. A sweeping stairway escorts guests to the dining room. Floor-to-ceiling windows deliver Chinatown views.
Info: 750 N. Hill St.; oceansf.com
Chung King Road Art Galleries
Chinatown’s hip art scene draws the young, edgy crowd to its exhibit openings. Oriental architecture houses today’s contemporary art pieces. Glowing red lanterns hang above the pedestrian walkway. Chinese family landlords and non-Asian gallery owners have forged an inviting community spirit. Good Luck Gallery, the only female-owned space, highlights self-taught artists, such as retired surgeon Harry Steinberg, who displayed his ceramics for the first time at the age of 103.
Info: 900 block of Chung King Road; chinatownla.com
Little Tokyo
The Nippon nucleus resides a half-mile south of the Amtrak station. Droves of Japanese students and transplants who frequent the quarter are a testament to its vitality. Issei (immigrants) and Nisei (their children born in America) strive to keep Little Tokyo as a residential and retail center.
Japanese American National Museum
For 23 years, the museum has striven to keep the history of first-generation immigrants alive. Documents, photos and objects show the racial discrimination they endured, the evacuation of 120,000 Japanese to internment camps in 1942, and present-day relationships. A Hello Kitty temporary display adds levity.
Info: 100 N. Central Ave.; janm.org
Japanese Village Plaza
Urban decay in the 1970s spurred a small group of merchants to preserve their Japanese ancestry by opening this mall with more than two dozen Japanese bakeries, sushi and noodle houses and Asian boutiques. Blooming Art owner Naoko Ikeda travels to Tokyo every three months, selecting indigenous novelties for her shop. “I hand-carry pieces back to make sure they’re not damaged,” she says.
Info: 335 E. Second St.; japanesevillageplaza.net
James Irvine Japanese Garden
A pocket of peace amid downtown’s high-rises. Purple azaleas burst through green foliage. Cherry trees drip pink and white petals. Paths wind through bamboo, sequoias and cedar bridges throughout the one-fifth-acre, award-winning zenscape.
Info: 244 S. San Pedro St.; jaccc.org
Cold Rush Shave Ice
Ultrasoft H2O and smoothly shaved ice blocks result in Kakigori — shaved ice — which is more like powdered snow. Nine flavors with homemade syrups; nothing artificial. Try yuza citrus and mint mojito. Ring Donuts sells its baked tofu treats here. Matcha and Miso are just two of the 20 flavors.
Info: Weller Court, 123 Astronaut Ellison S. Onizuka St., No. 108; coldrush-ice.com
Koreatown
Wilshire Boulevard cuts through the center of this up-and-coming ’hood five miles from Union Station. Second-generation Korean-Americans are operating walking tours, killer eateries and big-time karaoke bars. The place runs 24/7. Metro’s Purple Line runs along its main artery.
Line Hotel
Roy Choi, of Kogi food truck fame, has a cult following in lovingly dubbed K-town. He has lent his talents to this kitschy hotel’s hot-pot eatery. Guest rooms boast midcentury furniture, custom-designed wallpaper made to look like concrete and Korean-snack-filled minibars. Acupressure at Wi Spa, one mile west, is an ideal addendum.
Info: 3515 Wilshire Blvd.; thelinehotel.com; wispausa.com
Parks BBQ
This Korean barbecue spot is taking the city by storm. Marbled beef graces each table’s private grill. Banchans — side dishes — of seaweed, kimchi, fruit, soup, etc., round out the meal. The seafood pancake? Yum! Meat is delivered fresh daily. Prime beef short ribs are second to none, even at $33.
Info: 955 Vermont Ave.; parksbbq.com
